the new ibiza
For generations Ibiza has captivated the hedonist imagination, a magnet for hippies, clubbers, DJs, European sunseekers, and increasingly, the rich. The Balearic island is situated in the Spanish Mediterranean, and enjoys a well-deserved reputation as the epicenter of global Bohemian life. Yet change is afoot with Spain's newly elected governmental leadership, resulting in a new emerging sensibility that is reinventing the very idea of Ibiza — changing into something a bit more relaxed.
Arrivals
Rampant overdevelopment in the last twenty years across Spain has resulted in a host of infrastructure amenities that have eroded the naturalistic vibe of Ibiza, but made it very easy to visit and consume. Arrivals at the well designed, modern airport are a breeze, and its just a short ride into Ibiza town, which features a walled village perched on a high part of the island. Endless traffic jams and the pressure of high season tourism mean that taxis can be a pain, so its best to rent a car and use it as an escape mechanism to the beautiful, less visited parts of the island to the north and southwest. Try BK Rentals, which offer the best rates and easy bookings through doyouspain.com — a website that makes car rentals an unusual cinch. If you need a private driver, try Antonio on +34670067888.
Where to Stay
Avoid the western town of San Antonio, (site of the world famous Cafe del Mar and Mambo Cafe), at all costs, as it features completely the wrong type of crowd. In Ibiza town on the east side, the new Hotel Nord and Ibiza Gran offer easy access to many restaurants and clubs. They are a good option if you are just there to sample the nightlife. Es Vive, a European favorite, is more nightclub than hotel and a fun option for those who don’t plan to sleep at night.
For a better experience, try getting out to a private villa in the surrounding hills, or head to the smaller boutique estates in the north. Ibiza Moving Arts, near Sant Llorenc, offers a tranquil setting and lush gardens in a 400 year old Ibizencan country house, with a yoga studio and regular classes at very reasonable rates. Xavier (a well connected Uruguayan who also runs the cafe at S’Estanyol beach) is opening a new property in the far north called Hotel Astante.
It is near Ses Casetes and features beautiful rock hewn rooms, chill out areas, and hiking trails to private beaches on the estate’s 14 hectares of land — heaven.
Beach!
Ibiza is largely known for its two best beaches, Sa Trinxa and Salinas. Both are packed all summer long, and a host of beach clubs and cafes offer full service menus, lounge chairs and activities for the intrepid onlooker. Sa Trinxa offers better people watching. On the west coast Cap la Bassa and Cala Salada at Punta Galera are great beaches, and the white sand at Cala Salada and Cala Conta are locally known as some of the best on the island. In the north, Benirras offers a stunning view and acceptable sand in a cove surrounded by green lands protected from development — with the occassional drumming concert. Farther north, near Portinax, are a series of small beaches with clear turquoise waters. One of these includes Hub Culture Secret Beach, an isolated location with access as part of a suite of scheduled activities in Hub Culture’s summer 2008 residency project in Ibiza. It runs from July 15 - September 10 with a number of local partners.
Restaurants and the Social Scene
Hub Culture is teaming up with the Macao Cafe group to create a residency programme for summer 2008, which will include VIP access at a temporary beach pavilion for the season for Hub Culture members. Macao Cafe will operate the location, with Hub Culture running activities throughout the season that include yoga from Quantum Yoga, beach massage, sports, and special events.
New clubland laws are set to have a big effect on the Ibiza scene for the busy summer season, with new closing regulations that reduce the 24 hour club cycle that has existed over the last several years. The clubs have become very bottle-service and VIP oriented, financially shutting out people who really just want to enjoy the incredible music Ibiza has to offer. Pacha, Space and KM5, three of the Ibiza’s biggest and best clubs, will thus reduce their hours of operation to close from 6AM to Noon, and DJ King Pete Tong will be moving his famous Friday set from Pacha to Wonderland at Eden “to encourage bringing back the music” to the center of the Ibiza scene. Rob Marmot, another top DJ who performs with Pete, will be spinning at Blue Marlin Beach Club on Wednesdays (great party!) and Es Vive.
Don’t miss Sven Väth, the hot new thing on the scene.
At some point all that dancing requires fuel, and Ibiza has no shortages on the food scene. Beach goers like to eat at Tropicana Cafe and then bump down to the afore mentioned Blue Marlin for the social scene, and Macao Cafe offers locations around the island and their upcoming beach pavilion, Macao Cafe on the Rocks. Casa Colonial, Sole Luna and Bambudda Grove are all good locations for a nice evening meal.
Before you leave, its worth taking a little drive up north to Santa Gertrudis de Fruiteria, a tiny village that has become quite the in spot for sophisticated people watching. Here you can pop in on the lovely Gisela, a German native of Ibiza who has watched the scene evolve for over 30 years. From running the door at famous clubs in the 1980s, she opened her own clothing label and gallery, which eventually turned into Gisela, a collection of beautiful Ibiza style clothes. Favored by everyone from Kate Moss to Jade Jagger to Calvin Klein, every custom piece is both revealing and a true work of art. If you’re lucky, maybe she’ll sit down with you for a cup of tea in her studio, and share a story or two about the old Ibiza and its bohemian roots. Although those days are gone in the busy, clubby south, you might just believe it still exists in the north, if only by the twinkle in her wise blue eyes.
Stan Stalnaker is the founder and creative director of Hub Culture Ltd., a movement with a suite of activities focused on content development, private social networks and global experiences.
He can be contacted at stan.stalnaker@hubculture.com. |
